A CNY chocolatier ranks 9 drugstore chocolates for you last

Store-bought Valentine's Day chocolate. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Syracuse, N.Y — Happy Valentine's Day, Central New York. If you forgot all about this made-up holiday, you still have time to pick up something sweet for your sweetie.

You don't have to spend a lot of money or time to pick something out that says "Be mine." I went on a thrifty chocolate shopping spree. In less than an hour, I hit two grocery stores, a drug store, two dollar stores and a gas station to find some decent candy.

Could it really be decent chocolate if it came from Walmart or Five Below? To help decide what to wrap up for my significant other, I went to an expert: Michael Speach, the owner, president and head chocolatier of the Speach Family Candy Shoppe at 2400 Lodi St.

Michael took a few minutes out of his busiest season of the year to sample the nine varieties I bought during this bonbon bender.

None compared to the fine truffles, brickles and chocolate-dipped strawberries Michael was creating in the second-floor kitchen. But they weren't that bad either.

"Some of what you find in stores is OK, some of it isn't," he said. "Let's give it a try."

A heart-shaped box of Elmer chocolate. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $3.48 at Walmart

Did you know that the Elmer Candy Corp from Ponchatoula, Louisiana, has been bringing smiles to Valentines since 1855? Had you even heard of Elmer Chocolate before today? Me neither.

Whether you have or not, they obviously have us procrastinators in mind when they design their boxes. How could I not buy the heart-shaped box emblazoned with two frosty mugs of beer on the front? This sampler includes cocoa truffles, caramels and strawberry and orange crèmes. Crèmes? Yuck.

Speach's Speak: "Great packaging for the man in your life who really wants a beer instead of chocolate. This is actually not bad, believe it or not. If you’re an orange cream fan, it's good. Lot of great flavor and the crack on the chocolate is pretty good. As a chocolate guy, maybe we can figure something out with them."

A collection of 'fine assorted confections from Ferrero. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5 at Walmart

Such an attractive clear heart to display eight confection balls. Ferrero candy come in a variety of sizes, this being the least expensive.

Speach's Speak: "This is a classic. They’re pretty hard to beat. They have crushed hazelnuts with some cream inside. They’re verging on a truffle with a nut inside. Great for someone who has really delicate tastebuds."

Assorted chocolate truffles from Lindt. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5 at Walmart

The label says it's "about 7 pieces" in the gold heart-shaped box. That's exactly what I got. These are the same smooth candies you can get all year long, but in an oversized heart box that could probably fit 27 of these inside.

Speach's Speak: "They’re a great product that revolutionized the idea of what a truffle is. This is a nice little gift maybe ... for a teacher maybe. I’d be a little concerned if this is all you got for your girlfriend. Times are tough. I get it. I do enjoy these on occasion. If you were to grade this, I’d give it an 8 out of 10. It's a decent go-to if you need something for a gift while you’re getting gas or picking up a prescription."

An assortment of chocolates from Russell Stover. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5.48 at Walmart

This cellophane-wrapped box looks like it came out of the 1950s. Given the amount of additives on the nutrition label, it very well could’ve been 70 years old. We got 11 pieces here. They include a couple caramels, a peanut cluster, a truffle, strawberry créme, vanilla créme and chocolate buttercream. The créme candies will be the ones left in the box come trash day. You’ll be able to spot those with the thumb dents on the bottom.

Speach's Speak: "Here we go. This is the one. We all know it. We all love it. It's pretty traditional with the nice metallic box. As a cream, this texture is very different than the Elmers chocolate. It's a thicker cream.... Russell Stover's been around forever. I would get maybe three of these, take the insert out and put them all in this one box to make her feel really of special. Or him. Whatever you need to do."

A chocolate rose from Galerie. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $1.50 at Five Below

This cute flower must be good. The chocolate was made in Belgium. Granted, it was molded and packed in China before it was sent to Kentucky for distribution. Once you’re done eating the candy petals, you’re left with a plastic stem and leafs.

Speach's Speak: "This is very pretty, very traditional. People love these. But, it's hollow. I can't taste anything. I think it just needs to be pretty. How ‘bout that?"

Caramel duet hearts from Ghirardelli. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5.99 at Target

The pink box encourages us to celebrate the season of love with rich, indulgent milk chocolate duet hearts filled with caramel. The biggest problem is the container. By the time you break through the box held together with strapping tape, you may not find it so special.

Speach's Speak: "This is a nice way to end the day here. Ghirardelli is such a great brand. I like these a lot. If you’re going to impress someone with caramel and you’re not buying it from us, this is the way to go. This is the next best one."

A partially eaten sampler from Whitman's. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $7.99 at Wegmans

We’ve been able to buy Whitman's samplers in gas stations and drugstores since 1912. On Valentine's Day, though, we have to brave cranky Wegmans crowds to get our hands on this last-minute staple.

"This traditional chocolate collection is composed of 10 memorable recipes in 13 delicious pieces," the label reads.

Speach's Speak: "When you’re giving a gift, take all this wrapping and cardboard labels off. No one wants to fight with the packaging. I’m going for what I’m guessing is a toffee chip or a molassis chip. Hmmm. I don't know what this is. I’ll try something else. OK, this buttercream is pretty good ... once I get that peanut butter taste out from the other one. This does have a variety if that's what you’re looking for."

The Star Wars Mandelorian tin of chocolates. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5.50 at Family Dollar

The Mexican-made chocolate in this tin probably has the fewest ingredients of any we tested. We got 11 individually-wrapped chocolates shaped in various "Mandalorian" characters.

Speach's Speak: "I actually got one of these as a great little gag gift. These are just solid milk chocolates. Hmmm (said while taking a bite.) This one needs a little work. But if you’re a fan of Star Wars, you’re going to want this. Who's not going to want Baby Yoda on a heart. It could go on a bookcase. Great for a collector."

Milk chocolate truffles from Dove. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

Price: $5.50 at Family Dollar

A simple presentation of nine milk chocolate truffles all in an italicized heart tin.

Speach's Speak: "Another great product. I’m a huge fan of their solid chocolate bars. These are the Dove truffles. Great branding with fun little hearts. They have cute little messages written on the package under each piece. It's like conversation hearts. But not."

The remnants from Valentine's Day 2023. (Charlie Miller | [email protected])

In the end, I came home with plenty of decent chocolate for my Valentine and one heck of a bellyache. I also came home with a container of Michael's potato chips dipped in his family's recipe of blended milk chocolate ($34.99).

Guess which one didn't last until Valentine's Day.

Thanks, Michael.

****

Charlie Miller finds the best in food, drink and fun across Central New York. Contact him at (315) 382-1984, or by email at [email protected]. (AND he pays for what he and his guests eat and drink, just so you know.) You can also find him under @HoosierCuse on Twitter and on Instagram. Sign up for his free weekly Where Syracuse Eats newsletter here.

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